A few miles inside the state of Tamil Nadu, which borders Kerala. A very early morning tour around a sprawling plantation in the flatlands east of the Western Ghats. Like many park rangers around the Periyar Tiger Preserve, our guide was a former elephant poacher who was arrested and given a job as a guide and wildlife protector. He had a bit of a Gandhi look about him, and he played a haunting melody on a wooden flute after our brief white bread and cheese lunch next to a small Hindu temple under a banyan tree at the edge of a rushing river.
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